Flatbread split, packed with spiced minced lamb and pressed onto the grill until the fat renders into the bread and the outside goes shatteringly crisp. Few things with four ingredients are this good.
Combine the lamb, grated onion, garlic, parsley, tomato, baharat, cinnamon, Aleppo pepper and salt in a bowl. Mix with your hands until it is completely uniform. Squeeze the grated onion dry first — wet onion steams the bread from the inside and you lose the crispness.
Fry a teaspoon of the mix and taste it. Raw lamb tells you nothing, and under-seasoned arayes are a waste of good bread. Adjust and mix again.
Split each flatbread around the edge to open a pocket, or cut it in half if it is already double-layered. Spread the lamb inside in a thin, even layer — no more than about 5mm. Thick filling is the usual mistake: the bread burns before the middle is cooked. Press firmly so the filling reaches the edges.
Brush both outer sides with olive oil. Press each one flat with your palm so the lamb bonds to the bread.
Over charcoal or on a hot griddle, cook for 5 to 7 minutes a side with something heavy pressing down on them. They are done when the bread is deeply browned and crisp and the fat has soaked through. In an oven, 220°C for 15 minutes on a preheated tray, turning once.
Cut into triangles and serve immediately with tahini sauce or garlic sauce, pickles and lemon. They do not wait — crisp arayes become soft arayes within ten minutes.
Or let us cook it
We make this every day at 12–14 Station Parade, Willesden Green. Dine in, collect or delivery.
Call 07450 254441Lebanese flatbread stuffed with spiced raw minced meat and grilled, so the bread crisps while the meat cooks and the rendering fat soaks into it. The name comes from the Arabic for 'brides' — the bread and the filling married together.
Thin Lebanese flatbread or a good pita with a proper pocket. Thick, fluffy supermarket pita does not crisp. Markhouch or saj bread, if you can find it, is even better.
Beef works well with the same seasoning. Chicken is harder — it has too little fat to carry the bread, so use thigh mince and add a spoonful of olive oil to the mix. Our halloumi and mozzarella version, arayes bel jebneh, is the vegetarian route.
PAPA Restaurant & Cafe · 12–14 Station Parade, Willesden Green, London NW2 4NN · 07450 254441